This section of the Professional Driver Development Program is for those who already have their Commercial Driver’s License. It’s not a complete program but rather, general tips to improve safety on the road while you work.
A full pre-trip inspection is required once every 24 hours. Not only is it the law, it’s also how you are going to make it home safely to your family and those around you make it home safely to their families. You will do a pre-trip inspection every single day of your driving career.
If you share your truck with another driver who starts his shift at 4:00 a.m. as an example. They will record their pre-trip inspection findings at 4:00 a.m. If you then start your shift at 4:00 p.m., you are not required to record a pre-trip on that same unit for the same day according to the law.
Will you trust your life to another driver? I wouldn’t and you shouldn’t either. You have no idea how well trained that other driver is, if they were late and skipped their pre-trip, if they are lazy or just doesn’t care about safety. Even if the morning driver does everything properly and completely, something could break or come loose during the operation of that truck.
Never trust your life or the lives of those on the roads and sidewalks around you in the hands of another person. Do your pre-trips, post-trips, and mid-trips completely and properly every single day and record your findings properly. At first it may seem confusing and overwhelming, but you will develop a pattern that works for you and have it mastered quickly.
Even though it will take hours for you to learn and then master these inspections, you will get them down to under 30 minutes for pre-trips and under 10 minutes for post-trips. Mid-trips will take you less than 5 minutes. These are the minimum time allowances you should show on your log record as on duty other than driving when you record your findings.
You must record your inspection findings on your logs whether you use paper logs or an electronic log device. If you find a minor defect, record it as the correct section of schedule 1 along with the letter that corresponds to the defect. As an example: 21 A (because you found a small chunk of rubber missing from one of your tires.) It’s so small that it doesn’t affect the safety of the vehicle or the integrity of the tire itself.
The passenger side of the truck is on the right side, the driver’s side of the truck is the left side. If the damaged tire is on the front drive axle and is the inner tire, you would record the entire information so the technicians in the shop will understand exactly what the issue is. This will be: 21 A LFI – This means: schedule 1, section 21, part A minor, left, front, inner, and they know it is a tire. If you record a major defect, record a capital M after the part letter. 21 AM LFI means that your left, front, inner tire is flat. Look at your schedule 1 to find this example.
Before we begin our cold engine check, we will first take some safety precautions. Make sure your truck is parked on level ground and locate the key to your truck. Ensure it is not in the ignition and the ignition is not engaged.
Then using 3 points of contact, enter the cab and ensure both brake buttons are pulled out. We don’t want our truck moving on us while we are inspecting it. Regardless of whether you or another driver last parked this truck, you will pull the brakes anyway. Safety first always so don’t take any chances.
Before leaving the truck cab, pull the hood release and using 3 points of contact again, climb down from the truck and close the door securely. We are now ready to open our hood and we know we will be safe doing so. At the front of the truck, open the grill by unscrewing both bolts and allow it to lower until it gently comes to a rest. If you can reach the hood pull, you can use that to open the hood. If you can’t get to the hood pull because of the grill guard, push up from the side fender of the hood. Don’t pull on mirror brackets or the truck’s grill to open the hood. These are made of plastic and will break.
These trucks are big and heavy, but they are not indestructible. It’s very easy, and extremely expensive, to damage your truck. The more money the company must spend in maintaining and repairing these vehicles, the less money they have available to spend on drivers and staff. Let’s work together to have a beautiful, clean, awesome fleet that is safe to operate and be around. Let’s shine brighter than all the other companies and stand above the crowd.
Every truck you drive will be different. For training we’ll use a Volvo and may, at times, use the Kenworth for training as well. The location of the truck’s components will be different between the two brands of trucks. Regardless of which truck you choose to drive, it’s your responsibility to locate these components and ensure you inspect them properly. As an example: the fuel filter is on the left side of the Volvo and the right side on the Kenworth.
We’re now ready to start our cold engine check. Every trainer has developed their own way of doing things so what follows if the way that I do things. It will be different from the way you were taught at your commercial driving school because you were most likely only taught to pass a road test under controlled circumstances. You are now going to learn how to safely, efficiently, completely, and professionally work in the real world.
You will eventually develop your own way of doing things and so long as you do a full pre-trip, it doesn’t matter in what order you do it in. I start at the top and work my way to the bottom. Find the pattern that works for you and do it the same way every single day. You will become a very quick expert in no time, and it will become very easy.
Electrical Wiring, Air Lines, Steering Assembly, Fuse Box, Wiper Motor, Engine Housing, Oil, Power Steering Fluid, Windshield Washer Fluid, Fuel Filter, Frame, Suspension Leaf Springs, Shock, Suspension Fasteners and U-Bolts, Engine Belts, Engine Fan, Air Intake Pipes, Brake Chambers, Inner Wheel Rim, Headlight, Fog Light, Hood Shock, Water/Fuel Separator
Air Intake, Air Filter, Engine, Electric Lines, Frame, Suspension Leaf Springs, Shock, Fasteners and U-Bolts, Exhaust Pipes, Exhaust, Frame, Coolant Reservoir and Hoses, Engine Belts, Engine Fan, Brake Chambers, Inner Wheel Rim, Headlight, Fog Light, Hood Shock, Oil Filters
Now that we have thoroughly checked our engine and feel it is safe to start without causing a fire or other damage to it, we will learn how to inspect components while the system is under pressure. There are several parts of our truck we just can’t inspect unless the engine is on and running.
For us to be safe while running the engine with the hood up, this part of the inspection process will be almost entirely visual. We will not be touching anything under the hood, nor we reach under the hood for any reason. Do not at any time try to touch anything unless instructed to while the hood is open and never do anything under the hood.
Using 3 points of contact, climb up into the cab with your key. Put the key in the ignition and turn it 1 space but DO NOT start the engine. You will see all your dash lights come on and your gauges will go all the way up, then back down. You will also hear a series of clicks and air escapes as your system does a self-diagnosis. Once your truck is quiet again and your gauges have stopped moving, it is safe to start your engine. Turn the key and hold it until the engine is running. Release the key immediately after it starts the same way you start your car.
All diesel engines are a “wait to start” which means you will never get in a truck and start the engine without allowing it time to do the self-diagnosis even if you have been driving for hours and stopped for 5 minutes. Diesel engines have something called glow plugs which also need several seconds to warm up. You will cause expensive damage to the engine if you don’t “wait to start” it. Even the diesel refrigeration units on the trailers will not start immediately when you turn them on. They will take a few minutes before they start on the own. Don’t try to rush through anything. Your greatest asset in this industry is patience.
Now that our engine is running, turn on your low beam headlights and your left turn signal. We will need these on for our outside inspection that is coming up soon. Using 3 points of contact, climb down out of the truck and close the door securely.
Left Side – All Fluid Lines, All Electrical Wiring, Engine, Engine Belts, Engine Fan, Fuel Filter, Steering Assembly System
Right Side – All Fluid Lines, All Electrical Wiring, Engine Belts, Engine Fan, Oil Filter, Engine, Air Filter, Fuel/Water Separator, Exhaust Pipes, Inside Cab, Muffler, fuel lines, Fuel Tank
Left Side – Tail Pipe, Fuel Tank, Fuel Lines to Engine, Def Tank
At this point, we will close our hood and make sure it is latched securely on both sides. Next, we will lift the grill guard back into place and tighten the fastening bolts securely to keep it in place. Like everything else on the truck, there is no need to put all your strength into tightening these bolts. You will have a tool to make them nice and snug, but our trucks do have a lot of vibration while we drive. Please check these bolts during your mid-trip inspections and ensure they remain snug. If you find them loose, also check them during your post-trip inspection as well and tighten them if needed.
We are now going to do our outside circle check. We call it a circle check because we walk in a circle around our trucks and trailers to inspect everything we find. Again, every truck you drive will be different and it is your responsibility to find all the components you need to inspect and do a very thorough and complete inspection.
Very basically we are checking to ensure that any attached parts, stays attached to our vehicle and doesn’t come loose to hit the windshield of the vehicle behind us. Our trucks and big and heavy so we will cause a lot of damage simply by failing to check everything. Even a small plastic piece that maybe won’t cause any damage can be enough to scare the driver behind us who may jerk the wheel to avoid having something hit their car.
You are responsible for the safe operation of your truck at all times. The company can only fix what your report needs fixing. Our technicians are awesome, but they are not psychic and can’t read your minds. There are fates worse than death and you have to live with the consequences of your decisions. Make the decision of safety first, always.
To simplify the outside circle check, I will leave out controls sliding the 5th wheel and bogies. I will also leave out air suspension use except to inspect it and safe trailer door opening and closing. These will be explained later under the section of operation of the truck and trailer.
Since this is the first time, we will be including the trailer in our inspection, I will explain this in a little more detail. Your cold engine check and engine check under pressure need to be completed before you move your truck. You will not be parking your truck in our yard and leaving the trailer attached so only do the part of the outside circle check for the tractor. While you are out on the road, you will be able to do your inspections all at once without moving the truck or trailer. Also, when you switch trailers or pick up a new trailer, you must do the part that includes the trailer thoroughly before taking your new trailer on any public road.
We need to ensure that our engine is still running at this point. Our low beam headlights and left turn signal are on, and we are ready to start our outside circle check.
Truck Roof, Marker Lights, Windshield, Wipers, Hood, Grill, Grill Guard, Bumper, License Plate, Headlights, Fog Lights, Engine Leaks, Left Indicator Light
Hood Mirror, Marker Light, Steer Tire, Mud Flap, Driver’s Mirrors, Window, Door,
Inspection Sticker, IFTA Sticker, Steps, Battery Box, Air Tanks, Signal Light, Side Skirts, Bunk Windows, Def Tank,
Side Fairings, Work Light, Hand Rails, Air and Electrical Lines, Cab Air Ride, Catwalk, Side Steps, Handrail, Back Of Cab, Frame, Front Drives, Rear Drives, Mud Flaps, Air Suspension, Spring Suspension, Brake Chambers, 5th Wheel, Slide Plate, Tractor Frame, Tractor Lights, License Plate, Differentials, Driveshaft, Air Lines and Electrical
Trailer Wall, Top and Bottom Rails, Air & Electric Lines, Document Holder, Reefer, Placard Holders, Footholds, Vent Door, Marker Lights, Inspection Sticker, Trailer Walls, Trailer Skid Plate, Dolly Assembly, Trailer Fuel Tank, Placard Holders,
Marker Light, Indicator Light, Trailer Skirt, Crossmembers, Air / Electrical, Bogie Assembly, Air Suspension, Air Tank, Front Bogies. Rear Bogies, mud Flap & Brackets, Marker Light, ABS Light
Outside Circle Check – Rear
Trailer Doors, Handles, Hinges, Door Panels, Top & Bottom Rails, Trailer Frame, Marker Lights, Tail Lights, Signal Lights, License Plate Light, License Plate, ICC Bumper, Vent Door, Crossmembers, Placard Holders
WOOT !!! We are more than halfway through the outside circle check. It may be difficult to believe but you will get this figured out and down to a fine science. It won’t be long, and you will be flying through this at light speed.
At this point we will go back to our cab and switch the indicator light from left to right so we can check our lights on the right side as we go. This side of the truck is a little easier. There is no land gear handle, no inspection sticker, no suspension or slide controls, and we have already checked the exhaust system and fuel system.
So now we will check our right indicator and taillights at the back and then inspect the right side of the trailer and tractor the same as we did the left side. Don’t forget to check the front indicator on the right when you get back to the front. You have already checked the reefer on the other side so there is no need to do it again.
Once you complete a thorough inspection of all your truck and trailer components on the right side, we will climb up into the cab using 3 points of contact and settle into the driver’s seat. Next, we will do the inside circle check portion of our pre-trip. Most of this was part of your training in your commercial driving school but we will be adding just a few new things to keep you safe. Your safety is our most important concern, and we want you safe all the time.
Warning Lights, Gauges, Steering Wheel, Wipers, Mirrors / Glass, Heat / Defrost, Overhead Compartments, Driver Visor, Dash, Panel Controls, Floor, Seat / Seatbelt, Cupboards / Fridge, Top Bunk, Truck Binder
Emergency Equipment, Fire Extinguisher, Road Triangles, 1st Aid Kit, Fuses
Begin by shutting off your engine and engaging the ignition so that your gauges are reading normally. Open the left side skirting to expose the battery box and air tanks. You have 3 air tanks that are placed in order beginning at the front with your wet tank.
This is where all the moisture, oil, dirt, and debris gather and we need to begin with this tank, so we don’t contaminate the other 2 tanks in the process. The tank in the middle is your primary tank and the far-right tank is the secondary. Simply pull the braided cable attached to the wet tank valve until there is no more air left in the tank. This will take several minutes so have patience. Once the wet tank is completely empty of air, repeat the process on the primary tank in the middle and then the secondary tank on the right side.
When all 3 tanks are completely drained of air, start the engine and allow the air pressure to build to over 100 PSI. This is also a great time to ensure that both the buzzer and light for the low air warning device are working and that your air pressure is building within the prescribed limit of 15 PSI in under 2 minutes. Purge your tanks every single day at the end of your shift in the winter so no moisture freezes and blocks your airlines during winter months and every second day in the spring, summer, and fall.
Any air loss defects should be recorded as major defects regardless of what your schedule 1 says. Do not play with air leaks, air loss, improperly functioning components, or anything that causes you any concern at all with the air system. You can use section 13 on schedule 1 to put your vehicle out of service if needed.
With your engine off, turn just your ignition on so your gauges are showing accurate readings and functioning normally. Push both brake buttons in and ensure you truck doesn’t move. Pump your brakes down until your low air warning device activates. It must activate above 55 PSI and both the light and buzzer must function together and properly.
Continue pumping your brakes until you activate the automatic spring brake application. This will happen around 25 PSI. Ensure both brake buttons pop out by themselves. If you don’t get the results you expect, this is a major defect, and you need to red tag your truck.
Start your engine after you get your timer ready. Once your air pressure reaches 85 PSI and your truck is idling between 600 and 900 RPMs, start your timer. You must reach 100 PSI in under 2 minutes. If you don’t get the results you expect, this is a major defect, and you need to red tag your truck.
Ensure your air pressure gauges read above 100 PSI before you begin this check. Any time you are listening for air leaks, your engine needs to be turned off and your ignition should be on. Push both brakes in and ensure your truck does not move. Put your window down and listen for air leaks. Then hold the brake pedal as you time 1 minute on your timer. You can’t lose more than 4 PSI during that time so watch your gauges carefully. Record any air loss at all as a major defect and put the truck out of service.
Ensure your air pressure is between 90 PSI and 100 PSI and your engine is off. Your ignition needs to be on so your gauges are reading accurately. Ensure your brake buttons are pulled out so your brakes are applied. Exit the cab and remove your blue line from the trailer and listen for air leaks. If you hear any air loss, your tractor protection valve is not working correctly. Return your blue line to the trailer and be sure it is connected again properly.
A lot of our trucks now have disc brakes so there are no pushrods that need to be checked for adjustment compliance. Trailers as well as some tractors still have brakes that need to be checked for adjustment. First identify the size of your brake chamber and whether it is a long stroke or short. Ensure your engine is off and your steering is turned all the way to the left. You will also need a ruler and a way to hold your brake on or someone to help you.
With your engine off, ignition on, and more than 90 PSI in your air tanks, you will be ready to complete this inspection. Make a mark on the pushrod close to the chamber. Then apply the brakes either will something to hold it or someone to assist. Measure the distance the pushrod traveled from the brake chamber back to your mark. If it is above the prescribed limit, our brake is out of adjustment and your truck is out of service. You have 10 brakes on your truck and trailer. They all must be checked, not just one.
Brake adjustment courses and certification are offered at several locations that also do air brake certification. After completing this course, you will be able to adjust your own brakes when needed. This is only valid for self-adjusting brakes but not for brakes requiring manual adjustment. I don’t recommend this course if you intend to adjust your own brakes. If you work on your brakes and then the truck is involved in an accident, you may be held responsible. You are not a mechanic; you are a driver. Always protect yourself and leave this kind of stuff to those licensed to perform brake adjustments in proper repair facilities.